Сообщение от Kirill K
В итоге проверил аккумулятор на саморазряд, все в норме, 0.01 В в сутки.
Установил обратно в мотик, дал сутки постоять. Красная лампочка иммобилайзера перестала мигать. Измерил силу тока в цепи в таком состоянии - 48 мА. Выходит, полностью заряженный акк высадится ориентировочно за 9 суток.
Довольно грамотный товарищ с иностранного форума (полный текст ниже) пишет, что нормальное потребление тока на заглушенном мотике должно быть меньше 200 мА, поэтому нужно постоянно хранить байк воткнутым в зарядку.
Пара вопросов к читателям:
1) Подскажите, пожалуйста, сколько дней ваши байки могут простоять без движения (и без зарядки) и потом без проблем завестись? Вопрос не только к владельцам Diavel
2) Храните ли вы байк постоянно на зарядке?
3) Если кто-то измерял ток в цепи на заглушенном спящем мотике - поделитесь результатами, пожалуйста
Заранее спасибо за ответы!
Похоже, придется свозить байк в сервис и, поочередно отсоединяя разные потребители, выявить источник утечки и дальше уже думать, что с этим делать. Ток утечки хоть якобы и в норме, но отсоединять акк каждый раз, когда не катаешься неделю-две, звучит не очень удобно, а заряжать мот от розетки мне негде, к сожалению...
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I know how frustrating electrical issue can be. Without sounding like a "know it all" or being abrasive let me say this: I have been an Automotive Technician for 30 years. Worked as a technican in a dealership, Technical Training Instructor for factory and dealership personnel for major automotive manufacturers and a Field rep for 28 dealers repairing the vehicles the technicans couldnt repair. Now I am a test specialist at a major manufacturer for electrical issues. I have extensive knowledge of vehicle electrical, starting, charging systems. Several question have been asked about your specific issues.
There are several ways you can test these systems or the dealer can. But, it seems the dealer doesnt have the patience and qualifications to solve this issue. (assumption).
A battery drain or draw is caused by excessive current draw in the electrical system.(amperage draw). With the immobilizer system, ECU memory, ABS module and other computers there will always be a current draw. This is why you must use a battery tender on the bike. A normal current draw with these systems should have no more than 200 to 250 milliamps when measured with an ammeter. This measurment must be made after about twenty mins. after the bike is shut down for every module to go to sleep. This is why the battery is not installed into the bike until delivery to the customer not only because of the hazards of shipping the battery, but Ducati doesnt want to discharge the battery during transport.
This test is called a long term current draw test. If the dealer does not measure this for at least an hour or longer, they will not be able to verify if the electrical system has a draw. And I doubt they have done this.
If there is an excessive curent draw than it is as simple as disconnecting one component at a time until the draw goes away. Arbitrarily replacing modules is not going to fix the problem. I highly doubt that the ECU is casuing the problem.
If the current draw is normal, that I would perform a starter current draw test while cranking. Excessive current draw means faulty starter which would cause slow cranking, or no starts. This is also a simple test that the dealer can do. Another test could be done on all the charging starting curcuits using Voltage drops with a volt meter.
Mention these test to the technician at the dealer, if they dont understand, than it's time to visit a shop that does.
Test to be performed:
- Starter current draw test
- Long term current draw test
- Voltage drops on all charging/starting circuit cables/wires
- Charging system voltage test/output. Should be about 13.8 volts to 15 volts when running.
P.S. You can perform these test if you have a simple DVOM. (Digital Volt Ohm Meter)
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